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Baja Ha Ha 2016

Epilogue, November 11, 2016

Dear Friends—All wonderful things eventually come to an end. Each member of the crew wrote the following segments. From these, we hope that you get a flavor of how much this trip meant to us.

Avghi

What an amazing adventure!  The 3am-6am watches were my favorites. The stars were so close it felt like you could reach out and touch them. Melody and I were on the same watch, and on our first night we saw 7 shooting stars.  As Harmony parts the water with her strong bow, from the cockpit you can see the phosphorescence dancing along-side the boat. So beautiful. Towards the end of the journey, we saw sea turtles, dolphins, flying fish and some kind of fish jumping like a dolphin, but we could not figure out what it was.

I liked to lay on the bow of the boat in the daytime and reach down to touch the waves with my hand. We had one dolphin play at the bow for a while. I was lying there watching him, and he was so close I could almost touch him. He turned and looked up at me. It was a very sweet moment.

Harmony was majestic. She would slice through the ocean and part the seas. She held up very well and needed only a few fixes along the way even though she did take a beating the first two days out.

I would sail anywhere with this crackpot crew, the “Drunken Kitty Cat Pirate” Melody and trusty Captain, “Admiral” Jeannea our very organized purser, “Michael” Mike, Barbara was our Chief Boatswains Mate in charge of food and stores, and “Monkey” was me.

We are 3 hours out from crossing the finish line, it’s a bitter sweet moment…

Barbara—To be added later.

Jeannea

This was not your Grandmother’s trip! But here I am anyway, and I have been delighted to be on board. After the sendoff party in San Diego, we dashed for the start line along with 150 other boats, fog horns blaring. It was incredible to experience.  Our first 2 days out at 50 plus miles from land with gale force winds and large following seas we hand-steered over 56 hours. Truly awesome! We have watched sea turtles paddling by, dolphins and 2 whale spouts along with dozens of boats sailing south. The Grand Poohbah who organizes this amazing race every year gets kudos for communicating with the fleet and offering valuable information about out different ports of call.

Our meals have been yummy and plentiful thanks to our “A-number-one” provisioner, Barbara. Avghi has been trying to teach me spinnaker and gennaker handling but I refused to learn. I stand sedately at the helm and steer while she and Melody jump up and down on the foredeck making them fly. Beautiful to see the kite flying.

Our lone male crew Mike, came equipped with an infrared scope (FLIR). You cannot fathom how comforting it was to me to have him sitting on the bow able to see crab pots etc. as we entered harbors and dropped anchor in the very, very dark.

Harmony has performed beautifully thanks to the rigorous outfitting and countless hours of preparation that our Skipper Melody put into maintaining and upgrading the boat and her systems and has steered the ship and her crew safely and happily for 750 nautical miles. Huzzah!!!!

Michael

As the Scribe for this trip, dear Reader, you have already heard plenty of my observations. But I have to say something about this crew. As the lone guy on the crew, men and women at the Ha Ha parties would sidle up to me and ask, “What’s it like?” My answer was always the same. It was fantastic. I now feel like I have four more sisters in my close family. All of these amazing women know more about sailing than I do, I have learned a tremendous amount from them and I will always be grateful. We have jokingly been talking about sailing down to the Panama Canal and into the Gulf of Mexico. No joke. Call me. I would drop everything and join them.

Melody

Fini! The Baja Ha Ha portion of this great adventure has ended. Our final leg came to the perfect conclusion with a fast sail past Cabo Falso, a tuna fish sandwich, and lots of laughter (and photos of course by my best mate Barbara-oh and she made the tuna salad too).

This was a bucket list trip for me. I could not have achieved this dream without the incredible support of my crew. They tolerated me, cared for me, and even obeyed me when the situation called for it. I could not have done this without every one of them. Each brought a special talent, knowledge, willingness, and maybe a little craziness to round out our merry band. I have deep respect and eternal affection for Jeannea, Avghi, Mike, and a lifelong bond with Barbara that will bring me fond memories of this trip for years to come.

As I reflect on that special thing that brought all of us together to take on this challenge, I’d be remiss if I did not recognize the Women’s Sailing Association’s role in enabling and empowering us to try something outside our usual comfort zones. The Ha Ha fleet is lucky to have among its members several WSA members who have spread humor, help, and expertise across many boats along these many miles. In addition to the Harmony crew we had Jules Miller, Skip Korsgaard, Hans Kosten, Jen Huszcza, Diane Hubner, a long ago member named Margret and our newest member Greg Himes.   We are all a hearty (smelly) bunch…safe and sound in Cabo and stronger because of the friendships we’ve made along the way and our collective desire to empower women through sailing.

Next stop…margaritas.

Day #11, November 10, 2016

Dear Friends—The conditions in the morning were a repeat of the moderate wind and waves of last night. We motored most of the way until we approached the Cape. We had a great three-hour sail close hauled for the first time on the trip. We rounded Cabo Falso at 1300 and entered Cabo San Lucas Harbor about 1345 hours. We went immediately to our pre-assigned slip, N2, which is near the fuel dock. However, that was full so we did a raft up with Wind Horse hosted by Dennis and Vicki. It was a very tight fit and Skipper Melody did a perfect job of fitting us in. Done and done at 1400 hours. We cheated death again!!!

Next order of business was for the Skipper to take all of our passports and other paperwork to an agent and get us cleared into port. Known as the ”paper cha cha,” it is better to leave this to the professionals and pay a few bucks. Mike did it himself in 2003 and deeply regretted it. Confusing, complicated, lines, uncertainty, frustration. Choose a root canal over this process.

We cleaned up the boat and got ready for the party at Squid Roe. Showers never felt so good. Mike is leaving the boat and moving to a hotel. Mike and Avghi are flying out on Saturday and Melody and Barbara on Sunday. Jeannea is staying on the boat until Melody returns during Thanksgiving week to move it up to La Paz.

The party at Squid Roe was a blast. Much drinking of cervezas and margaritas and lots of dancing and whooping and ‘hollerin.

It will be hard to break up this great team. The next update will explore how we all fit together in a space 40 feet long and 13.5 feet wide.

Captain Melody, Barbara, Mike, Avghi and Jeannea

Day #10, November 9, 2016

Dear Friends-We were up at 0400 hours and desperate for news about the election. Somehow, Jeannea was able to get one bar on her cell phone and call her granddaughter in Boston. All she was able to hear was “Trump won” before the connection died. We thought we had heard wrong but Jeannea could not reconnect. Mike pulled out his satellite phone and tried to reach his brother in Virginia. No go. He was able to reach his daughter in Gainesville, Florida, who confirmed the news. We were all stunned as, we suspect, was the rest of the country.

Slowly we came to our senses and prepared to move off our anchor. At first light, we were able to motor out of the bay with a few other boats. The rest of the fleet had an “official” start at 0700. Many of the boats had already left for Cabo.

The trip ESE was with a following sea of about 3-4 feet and highly variable winds of about 6-8 knots. Every boat appeared to be on their engines and all of us were traveling about 6 knots. Consequently, we were pretty much bunched up during the whole trip. As the sun rose higher, the temperature rose over 90 degrees F. We rigged a sun cover and resorted to dipping shirts and towels into the cool ocean to get the “air conditioning effect.”

In the late afternoon, the wind started building slowly until at 12 knots, the Skipper declared that it was time to sail. Melody and Avghi, once again, did an expert job hoisting the Gennaker. We were the first in the fleet to get it going, and because sailors are ALWAYS watching the competition, those who had kites soon followed. I know. I said this was a race/rally/cruise, but the sailors I (Mike) was with would slip into the race mode unconsciously. “We’re moving on him.” “Eat his wind.” “Crush him.” As a newly minted sailor, it was surprising for me to see these very nice women on board Harmony be transported into speed demons bent on the conquest of all the boats in front of them.

We flew the Gennaker for about three hours and achieved a top speed of about 8 knots. This certainly got us closer to our destination and saved fuel in the process. We have enough fuel but it is always nice to develop a larger reserve.

At sundown, we were served Beef Stroganoff that Jeannea made at home and brought on the trip. It was delicious. The first quarter moon was high and at full dark, it was not dark at all. The stars were washed out until the moon set at about 0200 hours. We then had a repeat of the fabulous star encrusted heavens.

Between midnight and 0300 hours, Barbara and Mike were treated to a light extravaganza over the Baja peninsula. We were 18 miles offshore and could easily see a dramatic heat lightning show coming from the massive thunderheads that had built up over the mountains. It went on for hours and was better than any fireworks show.

The seas were 4 feet of long rollers of following seas and about 7 knots of wind all night long. Our Yanmar engine was really getting a workout. We stood our watches in conditions that were quite different from the first three nights. It fills your heart with joy to experience long distance cruising under these conditions.

We are nearing the end and already anticipating how much we will miss this.

Captain Melody, Barbara, Mike, Avghi and Jeannea

Day #9, November 8, 2016, Tuesday

Dear Friends-Happy Election Day! One of the great joys of the Ha Ha is that we have been disconnected from the insane election coverage for nine days.

We woke up to a gorgeous sunrise followed by a thick rolling fog that only lasted for an hour. Morning fog will have to be something we take into account when we leave early tomorrow.

The most important activity of the day was the retrieval of the repaired mainsail and re-installation. The Ullman Sails guys were so nice about it. Melody gave them some fresh water, a bottle of rum and four limes. When she picked up the sail, there were five other sails waiting to be repaired. They really provide a service to the Ha Ha boats. Installing the mainsail proceeded without a hitch.

The most fun activity was the beach party. Every year, the Ha Ha arranges for a live band to come from La Paz and some nice ladies who serve a fish dinner to over 150 people for $15 each. Hundreds and hundreds of cervezas were served to the troops. The ride in the panga was exciting because it had to cross several sand bars before landing on the beach. The rock and roll band was fantastic and the Harmony crew danced the day away. We were the hit of the party with our matching Harmony T-shirts. Even the Grand Poohbah stopped by and took pictures of us.

Other activities included transferring fuel and water from jerry jugs lashed to the railings to the boat tanks. Melody went over the side and checked out the prop and rudder with her snorkel gear. The entire crew went swimming several times during the day because the water was so warm.

Sunset was even better than sunrise. It was a 10 out of 10. We were seriously engaged in happy hour during the very long and very beautiful sunset. We went to bed early because we plan to get up at 0400 hours for an early start. We definitely want to arrive in Cabo during daylight.

Captain Melody, Barbara, Mike, Avghi and Jeannea